Soil Temperature to Germinate: Seeds need the right soil temperature to sprout successfully. If it’s too cold, they may stay dormant—or rot. Too hot, and they might germinate fast and fail.

The temperatures listed are reliable averages. Most seeds have some flexibility, unless noted otherwise on the packet.

If you're starting indoors, use these as a guide for your heat mat or room temperature setup.

Number of Seeds per Cell or Pot: This is how many seeds to plant per cell, pot, plug tray, or soil block—giving you a buffer in case one doesn’t sprout or comes up weak. If more than one germinates, simply thin to the strongest seedling (pinch or snip, don’t pull).

If you see “No” listed, that variety doesn’t transplant well. Sow it directly in the garden—especially root crops like carrots, radishes, or parsnips, which don’t like to have their roots disturbed.

Planting depth matters. Too deep, and the seed may rot before it sprouts. Too shallow, and it might dry out, fail to germinate, or die off soon after emerging.

Some seeds need light to germinate—those should be pressed gently onto the surface rather than buried. Your Taiga packet will note when that’s the case.

This tells you whether the seed can be planted straight into the garden.

If your packet includes transplanting directions but you choose to direct sow instead, it may increase the Days to Maturity (DTM)—that’s how long it takes from planting to harvest—and could lower the germination rate.

Some seeds—like carrots—must be direct sown. You’ll see “No” listed under # Seeds/Pot when transplanting isn’t recommended.

How far apart to place each plant—whether you’re transplanting or direct sowing.

At Taiga, we recommend using the same spacing for direct sowing as transplanting. We don’t have time to go back and thin rows—and honestly, it feels wasteful to pull perfectly good seedlings just because of poor planning.

Just keeping it real.

How far apart to space your rows from one another.

At Taiga, we lean toward closer spacing to make the most of every inch—because in a northern garden, space is precious. Tight rows help shade the soil, keeping it cooler, holding moisture longer, and slowing down weeds.

Smart spacing isn’t just tidy—it’s tactical.

Days to Germination: How many days it typically takes a seed to sprout—assuming ideal conditions like proper soil temperature, moisture, depth, and light.

Shorter times are common when starting seeds indoors; longer germination is typical in outdoor beds. And sometimes… seeds just take their time. It’s not failure—it’s survival strategy.

Also called Days to Harvest, this is the number of days from planting to harvest—based on ideal conditions.

You may see a range. The longer end is for direct sowing; the shorter for transplants. We’ve also tacked on a few extra days based on our experience in northern climates—because northern gardens don’t always follow the rules.

It’s not a guarantee, but it’s your most likely outcome.

This tells you if a crop can be planted more than once in a season for a continuous harvest.

Some varieties—like radishes, lettuce, or pac choi—can be sown multiple times. Others—like peas or beans—may allow for a second round. Crops like pumpkins are typically a one-and-done, and you’ll see “No” listed when succession planting isn’t recommended.

Succession planting isn’t required for a successful garden. Our seed collections are designed with this in mind—so the timing and variety mix already set you up for a steady harvest, no extra planning needed.
That includes our Container Garden and Small Garden collections. The Backyard Garden collection offers more flexibility if you want to try succession timing on your own.

The Urban Farm and Homestead collections go further, including varieties specifically suited for skilled succession planting.

When you’re ready, we encourage you to experiment. It’s a powerful way to grow more food—and stretch your season further than you thought possible.

Key for northern gardens: this tells you if the plant—not the sprout or seedling—can handle a light frost once established.

It’s pretty black and white: the plant either can or it can’t. And in some cases, a touch of frost actually improves flavor. (Brussels sprouts and carrots, we’re looking at you.)

Many varieties in Taiga’s seed collections are frost tolerant, trialed across multiple seasons on our family farm. We’re always testing new ones, too—because northern growers deserve every edge they can get.

Can the plant—not the seedling—handle cooler temps above freezing?

Some crops slow down, bolt, or stop producing in cool weather. Others thrive. Lettuce, spinach, cabbage, and similar varieties often grow better in cooler temps—and sometimes become even sweeter or more flavorful as a result.

This isn’t about surviving frost. It’s about knowing which crops prefer the chill.

This means the seed will grow into a true offspring of the parent plant—so you can save seeds and replant with reliable results.

Some crops (like corn, melons, and squash) need isolation to prevent cross-pollination, but open-pollinated seeds are always non-GMO by nature.

All heirloom and antique varieties are open-pollinated by definition. What sets them apart is their story—these are seeds passed down over time, valued for flavor, adaptability, and resilience.

At Taiga, we’re constantly seeking out heirloom, antique, and open-pollinated varieties to trial and grow—including an open-pollinated sweet corn featured in our vegetable collections.

As you grow, we encourage you to try saving seeds. It’s one of the most empowering skills a gardener can learn.

This tells you whether the plant is an annual (completes its life cycle in one season) or a perennial (returns year after year if it survives winter).

In northern climates, annuals die back with freezing temps, while true perennials must handle deep cold and harsh conditions. Knowing the type helps you decide where to plant and what kind of care it needs over time.

All of our vegetable seeds are annuals—except spinach, which may overwinter with deep mulch. Our herb and flower varieties include a mix of annuals and perennials.

This tells you how long seeds typically remain viable when stored in ideal conditions: cool, dry, and out of direct sunlight.

Seed longevity varies by crop, and germination rates naturally decline over time—especially if seeds are exposed to heat, moisture, or light.

We pack your order in sturdy, corrugated boxes that help block light and protect your seeds during storage. Store them well, and most seeds will serve you for seasons to come.