Soil Temperature to Germinate. Seeds need the right soil temperature to sprout well. Too cold, and they’ll sit there or rot. Too hot, and they may germinate quickly but struggle to hold on.

The temperatures listed are reliable working ranges. Most varieties have some flexibility unless noted on the packet.

If you’re starting indoors, use this number to guide your heat mat or room setup. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference.

Number of Seeds per Cell or Pot: This tells you how many seeds to plant per cell, pot, plug tray, or soil block. It gives you a little buffer in case one doesn’t sprout or comes up weak.

If more than one germinates, thin to the strongest seedling. Pinch or snip; don’t pull.

If you see “No” listed, that variety doesn’t transplant well. Sow it directly in the garden. Root crops like carrots, radishes, and parsnips prefer to stay put once they start growing.

Planting depth matters. Too deep, and the seed may rot before it sprouts. Too shallow, and it can dry out or struggle to take hold.

Some seeds need light to germinate. Those should be pressed gently onto the soil surface, not buried. Your Taiga packet will note when that applies.

This tells you whether the seed can be planted straight into the garden.

If a variety is typically transplanted but you choose to direct sow, expect it to take a little longer to mature, and germination may be less predictable.

Some crops must be direct sown. Carrots are a good example. If transplanting isn’t recommended, you’ll see “No” listed under # Seeds/Pot.

This tells you how far apart to place each plant, whether you’re transplanting or direct sowing.

At Taiga, we recommend using the same spacing for both methods. In a short season, there isn’t much margin for overcrowding or time to thin rows later.

Better to take a little extra care with spacing the first time.

How far apart to space your rows from one another.

At Taiga, we lean toward closer spacing to make the most of every inch, because in a northern garden, space is precious. Tight rows help shade the soil, keeping it cooler, holding moisture longer, and slowing down weeds.

Smart spacing isn’t just tidy, it’s tactical.

This tells you how long a seed typically takes to sprout under good conditions; proper soil temperature, moisture, depth, and light.

Seeds started indoors often germinate more quickly. In outdoor beds, it can take longer.

And sometimes, seeds simply take their time. That’s not failure. It’s how they survive.

Also called Days to Harvest, this is the number of days from planting to harvest under good conditions.

You may see a range. The shorter end reflects transplanting; the longer end reflects direct sowing. We also account for Northern growing conditions, because our seasons don’t always move on schedule.

It’s not a guarantee. It’s your best working estimate.

This tells you whether a crop can be planted more than once in a season for a steady harvest.

Some crops (like radishes, lettuce, or pac choi) can be sown multiple times. Others, like peas or beans, may allow for a second round. Crops such as pumpkins are typically planted once. When succession isn’t recommended, you’ll see “No” listed.

Succession planting isn’t required for a successful garden. It’s simply a way to spread out harvests and make the most of your growing window.

Key for Northern gardens: this tells you whether the plant, not the sprout or young seedling, can handle a light frost once established.

It’s fairly straightforward. A plant either tolerates frost or it doesn’t. And in some cases, a light frost improves flavor. (Brussels sprouts and carrots know what we mean.)

Many varieties in Taiga’s seed collections are frost tolerant, trialed across multiple seasons on our family farm. We continue testing new ones each year.

This tells you whether the plant, not the seedling, can handle cooler temperatures above freezing.

Some crops slow down, bolt, or stop producing when temperatures drop. Others thrive. Lettuce, spinach, cabbage, and similar varieties often grow better in cooler weather, and sometimes even taste sweeter because of it.

This one isn’t about surviving frost. It’s about knowing which crops prefer the chill.

This means the seed will grow true to the parent plant, so you can save seeds and replant with reliable results.

Some crops like corn, melons, and squash, require isolation to prevent cross-pollination. Open-pollinated seeds are naturally non-GMO.

All heirloom and antique varieties are open-pollinated. What sets them apart is their history, seeds passed down over time, valued for flavor, adaptability, and resilience.

At Taiga, many of the varieties we grow and trial are open-pollinated, including sweet corn in our vegetable collections.

If you choose to save seeds, open-pollinated varieties make that possible.

This tells you whether the plant is an annual (completes its life cycle in one season) or a perennial (returns year after year if it survives winter).

In Northern climates, annuals die back with freezing temperatures. True perennials must withstand deep cold and long winters. Knowing the type helps you decide where to plant and how to care for it over time.

All of our vegetable varieties are annuals, with the occasional exception, like spinach, which may overwinter under deep mulch. Our herbs and flowers include a mix of annuals and perennials.

This tells you how long seeds typically remain viable when stored in good conditions: cool, dry, and out of direct sunlight.

Seed longevity varies by crop, and germination rates naturally decline over time, especially if seeds are exposed to heat, moisture, or light.

We pack your order in sturdy, corrugated boxes that help block light and protect seeds during storage. Store them well, and most will remain usable for seasons to come.